Pilgrims Log 8

7/1

It’s been a few days since I last updated you all. It has been difficult on the Camino. The last few days I’ve felt a bit lost and have been questioning why I’m walking. I’ve been walking alone mostly, and less social than I was previously. But I happened to stay at the ruins of an abandoned monastery, San Antón, which has a small, off-grid “donativo” albergue (donativo=pay what you can). Had an amazing meal of salad (worth its weight in gold on the Camino, a truly coveted food), Lithuanian potato pancakes topped with deliciously spiced pork and onion, as well as greek yogurt. I love experiencing culture through food and to me it is the best way to get to know someone. Sit down and share a meal from their home.

So now I’ve met several new people, and all of a sudden I have a Camino family again. I’m getting my footing back and my legs are starting to feel stronger. They say the Camino is three tests starting with the body, characterized by intense physical difficulties. Then comes the test of mind, in the Meseta, where it’s impossibly hot and you can’t see anything but wheat fields and there may be 6 miles between a single source of shade. Finally, the test of spirit. Not sure yet what that will entail. Where I find myself currently is in the Meseta, I have mostly recovered from my injury and will carry my bag again starting the day after tomorrow. It’s interesting that as I make this transition from “body” to “mind” my physical ailments are replaced by grief. I’m not sure what to say about that, but it’s something I’ve noticed. On the Camino Frances it is tradition for pilgrims to carry a stone and leave it at the Cruz de Ferro, just after Astorga. It is supposed to symbolize the Camino releasing you of your burdens that you carry with you. In Saint Jean, on day one, I picked up two rocks because I couldn’t decide which one I wanted. Now I understand that I am carrying this rock for Samuel. I will also get him a pilgrim credential and a compostela.

Today I offloaded 5lbs of stuff from my backpack and sent it to Santiago for later pickup. It’s been a good exercise in letting go and really seeing what I need vs what I thought I would need. I’m excited to carry my bag again. And then I made curry and rice for 30 people at this albergue. I love to cook for people so it was an amazing experience.